Bold opening: I conquered the climb and faced the cold head-on, but the real story is how persistence transforms a tough day into a testament of grit.
PCT SOBO DAY 99 — I Can Do It — The Trek
Day 99
Start: Tentsite/Evolution Creek, mile 1807.3
End: Tentsite/Palisade Creek, mile 1830.1
Miles hiked: 22.8 miles
Last night was brutally cold—likely the coldest night on trail so far. I woke up with foggy breath and ice crystals inside my tent. I wasn’t thrilled about the morning, but I forced myself to pack while my fingers stiffened. It was too chilly to wait for everyone, so Three Bucks and I set off on the trail.
This morning the trail was more ice than dirt. Overnight freezing rain left glossy ice patches and frosted puddles with intricate patterns. I wore waterproof socks over my regular socks to add a layer of insulation, which helped me warm up a bit faster.
Three Bucks and I marveled at the icy landscape, but the day’s first water crossing reminded us how serious the trail can be. Everything was slick. Three Bucks stayed upright; I slipped on an icy rock. Thanks to his outstretched trekking pole, I regained balance and crossed without soaking my feet.
Today I had to tackle Muir Pass, a Sierra favorite I’d been looking forward to. Just before Evolution Lake, I paused to wait for the rest of the crew, enjoying a snack as the sun began to warm me. The elevation, however, was a real challenge, and we found ourselves at nearly 11,000 feet with 2,000 more feet to climb.
Then the views arrived and erased the breath from our lungs. Evolution Lake stretched along the basin, seemingly merging into the surrounding mountains. The snow and ice on the trail had melted under the sun, making the stroll along the bank pleasant. The sky was a flawless blue, and it felt like the perfect day to tackle Muir Pass.
Despite feeling like I was near the end, there was more uphill to come. The higher I climbed, the more the altitude pressed on my lungs. Oxygen felt scarce, but I pressed forward.
Near Wanda Lake, the snow became stubbornly deep. Not many hikers had passed that way after the snow, so I trudged through it while the others spread out behind me. The deeper I went, the more the snow resembled a slow-moving river. The sun was hot enough to burn my lips, making sunscreen essential.
Finally I crested the pass and sat on the steps of Muir Hut, relief washing over me. I’d made it, and I rewarded myself with a Snickers and a much-needed breather. I waited for the rest of the crew, but they were planning to exit via Bishop Pass while I intended to push on. It was my last day with them, and I was sad to see them go after such fun days together. When they didn’t appear after about 20 minutes, I left a note and continued onward.
The miles pulled me forward. I descended, sliding and slipping through the remaining meltwater and snow. This side of the mountain felt almost like a river, with snowmelt filling every crevice. The day warmed quickly, and soon I found dry ground again. I even squeezed in a late lunch on a sunny, dry rock.
The rest of the day unfolded along Le Conte Canyon. Tomorrow would bring the Golden Staircase, a steep stretch leading to Mather Pass, so I aimed to get as close as possible tonight. The hike remained enjoyable, and I appreciated the stark contrast between the high alpine views and the lower valley below. Still, miles of hunger gnawed at me. No matter how much I ate, I felt hungry again within half an hour. With at least another day and a half to town ahead, I kept telling myself to take it one day at a time and stay determined.
When I reached camp, night had fallen. I would have liked to push another mile, but fatigue won out. I was eager to crawl into my tent and drift off. I chose pine duff for my sleeping area, giving me a soft, forgiving surface for a good night’s sleep. After dinner, I closed my eyes and let dreamland take over.
Trail monster — rawr!
And that’s a day in the life of a PCT SOBO hiker.
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